Classic osso buco alla Milanese is probably the dish that inspired me to write an entire book on braising in the first place. I don’t remember where or when I first tasted a veal shank slow-cooked with tomato and white wine, but I know that for years afterward I couldn’t go to a restaurant where it was on the menu without ordering it. Fortunately, I finally taught myself to make it – the recipe is surprisingly straightforward considering the complexity of flavor it delivers – and I still haven’t lost my appetite for the dish. I add a bit of chopped fresh fennel to the traditional aromatic mix of onions, celery, and carrots and I also add orange zest to enliven the braising liquid, but otherwise, this is pretty much the classic recipe I first tasted.

Veal shanks are ideally suited for braising because they’re so high in collagen, the connective tissue that breaks down in the moist, low heat of a braise and enriches the sauce like nothing else. Shanks also have a remarkably fine meat texture, which is what makes them so luxurious when braised.

Some cooks forgo the gremolata, the pungent mixture of garlic, parsley, and lemon zest added to the osso buco during the last minutes of the braise, but soon as it comes in contact with the warm veal, giving the whole dish a divine lift. In fact, I like the effect of the gremolata so much that I sometimes add a double dose. That is entirely up to you.

Risotto Milanese is the classic accompaniment, and with good reason. It’s creamy texture and saffron-laced flavor go perfectly with the tender shanks. If you’re not in the mood for risotto, plain rice or mashed potatoes are fine alternatives. Click for recipe