My Texas barbecue revelation happened in New Mexico. The displaced Texans tending the ranch where I worked blew me away with the most elemental food. It was just brisket cooked for what seemed like forever with post oak and coals. It emerged with that dark, nearly black, bark encasing juicy meat, some of it meltingly tender and unctuous and some with an appealing chew. Each slice was bordered by a pinkish hue--the mark of a steady flame. Over years of meditatively cooking (and eating) brisket, I tweaked Texas tradition until I found this recipe, which I consider the ultimate version--I call it the “get a book” brisket because it’ll have you cooking for a long time. But whether you pass the time by reading, chatting with good friends, or dozing off, I promise you: The wait will be well worth it.
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