1. Heat the oil in a medium-large, heavy, nonreactive saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-low heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook, covered, until softened and translucent but not browned, about 8 minutes.

2. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, wine, oregano, thyme, bay leaves, and pepper flakes and increase the heat to medium. Bring to a slow boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened and reduced by about one third, 2 to 3 hours, depending on the brand of canned tomatoes you’re using.

3. When the sauce has reached the desired consistency, remove the pan from the heat and discard the bay leaves. Season with salt, then use immediately or store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or in the freezer for up to 6 months.