Sometimes it’s made with the roe of the Mediterranean’s plump mullet. Near Greece’s tricky shore it’s the roe of lobsters or crab. A pale pink variety, which the Greeks call “white,” comes from carp. Sometimes it’s cod’s roe, imported from Iceland and other northern realms. Whichever the roe, it’s called tarama, and salty, appetite-alluring, and mixed in a spreadable “salad,” it is one of Greece’s most famous mezedes.

In cosmopolitan bars, patrons order it to accompany their ouzo or their ouiski (whiskey). In country homes it’s featured as an engagement or wedding banquet hors d’oeuvre. Traditionally the salad is served along with onions and lemons on Clean Monday, the first day of Lent.

Greeks make two versions, one based on soaked bread, the other on mashed potato. With bread, the salad is saltier and more textured. With potato it is sweeter and smoother. Some cooks combine both starches. Substituting shallots for onions and cilantro for parsley offers a bright twist. Some recipes include vinegar, but vinegar can overwhelm delicate fish roe, and that would defeat the purpose!