- Course: Dessert
- Skill Level: Challenging
- Cost: Moderate
- Favorited: 2 Times
Can be made ahead of time.
Germany
The recipe for this classic German Christmas bread, shaped to resemble the blanket of the swaddled Baby Jesus, comes from Gertrude Luckschewitz. One of six children, Gertrude was born in Gelsenkirchen, in an area known as the Ruhrgebiet. She immigrated to the United States soon after marrying in 1954. Stollen was an important part of her family ritual, but she had to bake it in a wood-burning stove at first. Once Getrude had a home with a modern range, she made stollen every Christmas, and she has been doing so for more than forty years.
The dough for stollen has lots of butter but only one egg, which is beaten into the sponge. It is packed with liquor-soaked dried fruits, which add flavor in addition to helping preserve the bread’s freshness. The baked stollen has a dense texture. Gertrude likes to enclose a log of marzipan in the stollen, as do many German bakers. The marzipan often comes as a surprise when the stollen is sliced, and people always ask what that circle is. Besides a certain level of sophistication, the marzipan contributes a welcome textural and flavor contrast to the dense dough.
Right after baking, the stollen is brushed with melted butter, which, besides softening the breads crust and adding flavor, functions as a “glue” for the generous layer of confectioners’ sugar that is then sifted onto it. The confectioners’ sugar probably symbolizes snow. Gertrude uses only confectioners sugar that doesn’t contain cornstarch, because she feels the cornstarch gives the sugar an unpleasant, chalky texture. I agree with her and, fortunately, cornstarch-free organic confectioners’ (powdered) sugar is now widely available in supermarkets, so do seek it out.
Since stollen keeps well, you can bake it for in advance of Christmas and store it, wrapped securely, at room temperature. Gertrude usually bakes hers on December 12, which gives the stollen plenty of time to age gracefully.
The night before or even 2 or 3 days ahead, combine the rasins, candied citron, and liquor in a 2-pint jar with a screw-cap lid or in a resealable plastic bag. Turn the container several times to distribute the liquor evenly. Set aside at room temperature to soak.
To make the sponge, scald the milk in a small saucepan over medium heat--you will see steam rising from the surface and small bubbles forming around the edges. Remove the pan from the heat and let the milk cool to between 120° and 130°F.
Put the flour into a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a heavy-duty mixer. Whisk in the yeast and sugar. Add the milk and whisk briskly to make a smooth batter. Add the egg and whisk to combine well. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and let the sponge rise until it more than doubles in volume and then collapses on itself, about 2 hours.
To make the dough by hand, beat the butter into the sponge with a wooden spoon in 2-tablespoon installments, beating until incorporated after each addition. Beat in the sugar, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla seeds, almond extract, and salt. Continue beating for 3 to 5 minutes to make a thick, ropy, elastic batter. Add the raisins and citron, along with any unabsorbed liquor, and beat in well. Beat in the almonds. Gradually add 2 cups of the flour, stirring to make a stiff but wet dough.
To make the dough with a stand mixer, attach the flat beater and beat the butter into the sponge in 2-tablespoon installments on medium speed, beating until incorporated after each addition. Add the sugar, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla seeds, almond extract, and salt and beat on low to medium-low speed until the dough masses on the blade, about 5 minutes. Scrape the bowl and beater, and stir in the raisins and citron, along with any unabsorbed liquor. Add the almonds. Switch to the dough hook. Beating on low speed, gradually add 2 cups of the flour and then knead for 3 to 5 minutes.
Sprinkle ½ cup flour on your work surface and scrape the dough onto it. Knead the dough until all the flour has been incorporated. The dough should feel fairly firm and be only a bit tacky. If it is too sticky, knead in up to ¼ cup more flour. Push any fruit that falls from the dough during kneading back into the dough.
Wash and dry the bowl and either oil it lightly or coat it with cooking spray. Shape the dough into a ball and place it in the bowl, turning to coat all surfaces. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let the dough rise until almost doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Turn the dough out onto an unfloured work surface and divide it in half with a pastry scraper or sharp knife. Shape each piece into a ball, cover with a kitchen towel, and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes.
To shape the stollen, divide the marzipan into 2 pieces. Roll each under your palms into a cylinder about 11 inches long. Pat or roll each piece of dough into an oval measuring 12 inches long and about 9 inches wide at the widest point. If the dough sticks at any point, dust it very lightly with flour. Make a shallow depression down the center of each oval with the handle of a wooden spoon. Place a roll of marzipan in each depression. Lift one side of dough over the marzipan, covering it completely. The edge of the top flap of dough should just reach the other edge of dough.
Line a large baking sheet (18 × 12 × 1 inch) with a silicone baking pan liner or cooking parchment. Put the stollen crosswise on the prepared sheet, placing them about 3 inches from each end of the sheet and leaving about 4 inches of space between them. Coat the stollen with cooking spray and cover them loosely with plastic wrap. Let rise just until they have increased in volume by about half, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Adjust an oven rack to the lower third position and preheat the oven to 350°F.
When the stollen are ready, remove the plastic wrap and place the pan in the oven. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, until the stollen are nicely browned. An instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part should register 195°F. Remove the pan from the oven and immediately brush each stollen with half the melted butter. Put the confectioners’ sugar in a fine-meshed sieve and sift a generous layer ail over the top of the stollen. Repeat in a few minutes if you see the sugar melting in spots. Cool the stollen completely on wire cooling racks. To serve, cut into ½-inch-thick slices with a sharp serrated knife.
Storing:
You can leave the stollen, uncovered, on the rack overnight, which will help them dry a bit. Then wrap tightly in plastic wrap and store at room temperature for up to 2 weeks. For longer storage, put the wrapped stollen in heavy-duty resealable plastic bag, and freeze for up to 2 months. Thaw completely in the wrapping, then unwrap, place on a baking sheet, and refresh in a preheated 325°F oven for 10 minutes. Cool before slicing. Dust with more confectioners' sugar, if necessary.
Nutritional information is for each loaf, 2 1/2 cups of flour, but does not include Marzipan or Confectioners Sugar for dusting. For nutritional information on Marzipan, please follow the link above.