In a large steamer pot (or you could use a pasta pot and steam the clams in two batches), combine the beer, onions, celery, and Old Bay seasoning. Let the liquid come to a boil and then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 minutes before adding the clams (in the steaming basket) on top. Cover the pot. As the clams start to open (check after 3 to 4 minutes), start removing them with tongs to a heated bowl. (Any clams that do not open can be pried open using an oyster shucker or discarded.)

Serve the clams with bowls of melted butter, cocktail sauce, lemon wedges, and tiny cocktail forks. You can also dip the clams into the steaming brew. If you’re really fond of salt, beer, and clams, you’ll want to do what my grandfather did: use the spigot on the bottom of the steamer pot and pour yourself a mug of the infused brew. “Papa” wasn’t a drinking man, but he sure liked his salty clam brew.