Sorrel:

Nancy and Robin Gammon of Four Sisters Farm devote two acres of their five-acre organic farm to growing greens. Although they allow and encourage many wild greens to grow that they then harvest, they cultivate many others, including common or garden sorrel, sometimes known as sour grass.

This slender plant, with juicy stems and long, spear-shaped leaves, has an acidic green apple-lemon taste that can be an intense tart counterpoint to rich or creamy flavors. It is most often cooked to tame its tartness, but a few small, young uncooked leaves can brighten the flavor of a green salad. When sorrel’s vibrant green leaves are cooked, they change to a drab olive green and melt into a delicious purée.

Season:

In Northern California, the growing season is almost year-round for this perennial. Although it may disappear from the market in midwinter, it will return again in early spring.

Choosing:

Select bright green, crisp leaves with no sign of yellow. Limpness can be a sign of age or improper handling. Remember that a large bunch of sorrel will cook down to a small flavorful puree, so be sure to buy enough.

Storing:

Wrap the unwashed greens in a paper towel, slip into a perforated plastic bag, and store in the vegetable bin of the refrigerator. They will keep for up to 1 week.

Preparing:

Just before using, rinse the greens in a large bowl of cold water, lifting them to allow any dirt to sink to the bottom. Repeat with fresh batches of cold water until no more dirt is visible. Shake off the excess water and allow the greens to air dry on paper towels. Strip and discard the stems from the leaves. Use a stainless-steel knife to chop the leaves. A carbon-steel knife will react with the oxalic acid present in the leaves, causing them to discolor.