1 Peel and seed the tomato. Cut it lengthwise into ¼-inch-wide strips. Set aside.

2 Put the vinaigrette in a bowl and whisk in the garlic and cayenne. Set aside.

3 Just before cooking, clean the soft-shell crabs: Pull off the underbelly flap and gills and cut off the eyes. Put a little flour in a tea strainer and sift just enough over the crabs to lightly coat both sides.

4 Put 1 teaspoon of oil in each skillet and place over high heat. When the oil is just smoking, add 2 crabs to each pan. Sauté until brown and crisp, about 1½ minutes per side.

5 Stir the herbs into the vinaigrette. Spoon about 2 tablespoons onto the center of 6 dinner plates. Use the back of the spoon to spread the vinaigrette into a 6-inch circle. Arrange strips of tomato in a circle, spoke-fashion, with half of each strip in and half out of the vinaigrette.

6 Split each crab in half and place over the vinaigrette. Serve immediately.