Sauteed Veal Chops with Mushrooms and White Wine
Borrowed flavors come together to produce the rich, elegant taste of these chops. Some of the aromatic quality of fine game is bestowed on the veal by cooking it in sage and butter, sage being the traditional herb for game in Italy. The fresh mushrooms are cooked with the reconstituted dried wild mushrooms, benefiting thus from the woodsy porcini taste that they appropriate. The chops and mushrooms are then combined and bound with reduced cream. The recipe can also be done with scaloppine should one prefer them to the more substantial chops.
The dish may be prepared in advance through step 8.
Total Timeunder 1 hour
OccasionFormal Dinner Party
Recipe Coursemain course
Taste and Texturecreamy, herby, meaty, rich, savory
- ½ ounce dried porcini mushrooms, soaked in 1 cup lukewarm water for at least 30 minutes
- ¾ pound fresh mushrooms
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 4 or 5 dried sage leaves, chopped fine
- 4 veal chops, about 1 inch thick
- ½ cup dry white wine
- 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
- Black pepper in a grinder
- ½ cup heavy cream
Wash the fresh mushrooms rapidly under cold running water, then cut them into very thin slices.
When the dried mushrooms have finished soaking, lift them out of the water with your hand or a slotted spoon. Line a strainer with a paper towel and filter the water the mushrooms soaked in by pouring it through the strainer into a bowl or beaker. Set it aside.
Wash the porcini mushrooms in several changes of cold water until they are free of all grit, then cut them up into large pieces. Set aside.
Put the butter and sage in a sauté pan and turn on the heat to medium high. When the butter is hot, slip in as many chops at one time as will fit without overlapping. Brown them well on one side, then turn them and brown the other side. Continue to cook them, turning them once or twice more, for 3 to 4 minutes, until the meat is done. It should be pink and moist, but not raw.
Add the wine, let it bubble for about half a minute, then transfer the chops to a platter, using a slotted spoon or spatula. Continue to let the wine bubble until it has evaporated completely, scraping the bottom of the pan meantime with a wooden spoon to loosen any browning residues.
When the wine has evaporated, add the reconstituted dried mushrooms and their filtered liquid to the pan. Stir from time to time as the liquid evaporates.
When all the liquid has boiled away, add the sliced fresh mushrooms and the chopped parsley. Stir well, add salt and several grindings of pepper, stir again, then lower the heat to medium and cover the pan. As the fresh mushrooms cook they will shed liquid. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until all the liquid has evaporated.
Add the heavy cream, leave the pan uncovered, and cook the cream down until it is more creamy than runny.
Sprinkle the chops on both sides with a little salt and ground pepper and return them to the pan. Keep them in the pan just long enough to heat them through and through, turning them once or twice. Serve promptly when they are done.
1986 Marcella Plini Hazan and Victor Hazan