Editors’ Note: In How to Cook Everything: Bittman Takes on America’s Chefs, “Every recipe challenge presents a chef’s special dish followed by Bittman’s more accessible interpretation.”

This is Gary Danko's entry in the "Poultry in Napa" challenge. Other entries from the same challenge include Sauteed Chicken with Green Olives and White Wine and Grilled Quail with Bitter Greens Salad.