Popovers—once known as Laplanders—are made without leavening, and are a delight to the eye, the tooth, and the palate. They are purely American. Although the batter is almost that of Yorkshire pudding, I do not believe that this was the inspiration, inasmuch as the popover went through a number of transitions over the years till it became the standard recipe we know. The latest development in popovers—after we were advised for years to pour the batter into sizzling tins, put the tins into a very hot oven, and reduce the heat after 20 to 30 minutes—comes from the discovery that they can be started in a cold oven set for 425 degrees. They pop and rise magnificently this way. Also, it is certain that the less they are beaten the better they are.