The Italians have a way of making a special dessert out of unmessed-up simple ingredients. It’s something to do with their touch. I mean — take affogato, which is just a scoop of vanilla ice cream “drowned” by having a strong hot cup of espresso thrown over it. Or there’s sgroppino, which is a scoop of sorbet in a glass, topped up with a fizzy hit of Prosecco. Dessert can be entirely store-bought and still feel like a treat: You just buy a bottle of Vin Santo and provide cantuccini biscuits to dunk in.

And I love the way they make fruit feel special too, just by washing grapes, cherries, and apricots and sitting them in bowls of ice water directly on the table. This recipe is scarcely more work, and if you don’t want to do any of it in advance, then just put a bottle of Muscat wine on the table and a bowl of peaches, give everyone a sharp knife and a glass, and let them pour their own Muscat and slice in their own peaches.