1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°F).

2. Halve each peach and remove the pit, then cut each half into 3 wedges. Place the peaches, with the figs (if using) in a gratin dish and sprinkle with 2 tbsp of the sugar, the cardamom, and lemon zest and juice. Bake for 20–25 minutes, until the peaches are juicy and glazed. Remove the peaches from the oven. Position a broiler rack 6in (15cm) from the source of heat and preheat the broiler.

3. Combine the yolks, remaining 4 tbsp sugar, and wine in a heatproof bowl. Place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Beat with an electric mixer for about 4 minutes, or until the mixture has tripled in volume.

4. Pour the sabayon over the peaches. Broil until the topping is glazed, about 30 seconds. Serve hot.

Variation: Red Fruits with Marsala Sabayon

Substitute 12 oz (350g) strawberries, hulled and halved, and 6 oz (175g) each raspberries and stemmed red currants (or blueberries) for the peaches. Toss with 2 tbsp sugar, ¼ tsp ground cinnamon, and the finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime. Let stand for at least 2 or up to 8 hours at room temperature. Make the sabayon as above, substituting sweet Marsala wine for the Muscat.