I don’t batter my onion rings; I just coat them in a light coating of flour. The problem with battered onion rings is that you forget they’re onions. They taste good, because all fried food tastes good, but they don’t really taste like onion because the batter around the onion overwhelms the onion flavor. With some commercial onion rings you can’t even find the onions because the manufacturer chops up the onions, adds them to the batter, and then forms the batter into ring shapes. So what they are, really, is not onion rings but onion-flavored batter rings. It is homogenized and uninteresting, and it is the opposite of what I like in food, which is honesty. Truth in advertising. Some people like their onion rings thin, some like them thick—you should slice your onions however you want them because they’re going to be your onion rings. I remember reading that Mimi Sheraton loves onion rings. Someone asked her how she liked them, and she said, “Plain.” I’m with her. I don’t serve them with anything, but there is catsup on all the tables, which I suspect most of my customers use with theirs.