Mozzarella has the virtue of being lower in calories and fat than most cheeses, at only 80 calories per ounce. It is worth seeking out authentic fresh mozzarella for its sweet, milky flavor and its ability to melt in such a wonderfully satisfying way. Packaged low-moisture mozzarella is both rubbery and flavorless.

In this wonderfully simple recipe that I learned from reading Marcella Hazan, hot boiled risotto rice is mixed with fresh mozzarella cheese and fresh basil. The heat of the rice melts the mozzarella into thin strands, making an utterly satisfying quick main course. Although I usually make this dish with a round-grain risotto rice such as Arborio or Carnaroli, you can use just about any large-kernel grain you like, such as brown rice or farro. The only caveat is that this dish must be eaten at once, while it is hot, or it will cool into a rubbery mass.