The first lemon curd I tasted was made by a talented pastry chef in New York City named Paul Geltner. He was teaching a French pastry class in a tiny restaurant in Greenwich village, and I got to attend at half-price because I washed all the dishes afterward. The best part was that after each class we could bring home our creations. Since I was in college at the time, this meant bringing a very expensive and sophisticated gateau or tart back to the unruly gang at my dorm. I’d get about ten yards down the hall before my dorm-mates would attack the pastry. Within minutes, it would be demolished.

Although the lemon curd was used as a filling for a fruit tart in Paul’s class, I use it here more casually, as a dip for fresh berries and cherries.