In a large skillet and over medium heat, warm the olive oil. Add the garlic and cook until nicely golden brown, about 3 minutes. Add the leeks and cremini, raise the heat to high, and cook, stirring often, until the leeks are wilted and any excess water has evaporated.

Remove from heat transfer to a large mixing bowl. Add the goat cheese and salt and pepper and stir to incorporate the goat cheese. Set aside to cool.

When the mixture is cool, lay out all 32 wonton squares on a flat work space. Place about a tablespoon of veggie mixture in the center of 16 of the wonton wrappers.

Working in small batches, brush the edges of all the wrappers with water and place the unfilled wrappers on top of the filled ones. Press the edges well to seal and set aside to dry a little.

When all the ravioli are prepared, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, lower to a gentle simmer and cook the ravioli in two batches. They’ll only need 4 or 5 minutes in the water. Be very gentle with them, removing them with a slotted spoon and placing them in a large pan of hot tap water.

To assemble the dish, place a bed of sautéed chard on each plate. Top with two ravioli and pour the warm concassé over all. Garnish with a sprig of fresh oregano.

Pour the olive oil into a large skillet and place over high heat. Add the garlic and cook until nicely golden, about 3 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes and oregano sprig, lower the heat, and let cook, covered, until the tomatoes have broken down, 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove the oregano sprig before serving. Serve warm.

Pour the olive oil into a large skillet and place over high heat for 1 minute. Add the chard and, stirring constantly, let it wilt, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the lemon juice, salt, and pepper and cook for 1 more minute. Remove from heat and serve immediately.