In a small skillet, toast the cumin and coriander seeds over low heat until fragrant. Crush coarsely in a mortar with a pestle or spice grinder. Add the sesame seeds to the skillet and toast, shaking the pan frequently so they don’t burn. When they are golden, crush them in the mortar or coarsely grind them in the spice grinder. Set aside.

Transfer the drained chickpeas to a food processor. In a small bowl, whisk together the tahini, lemon juice, garlic, 1½ teaspoons of the salt, the cayenne, the reserved spice mixture, and 2 tablespoons of the reserved cooking liquid. Add the tahini mixture a tablespoon at a time to the chickpeas, processing until you have a medium-coarse puree. (For a coarser texture, pulse to a coarse mash, or pound in a large mortar.) Stir in enough of the reserved cooking liquid to make a soft, fluffy mixture with the consistency of mashed potatoes. Add the remaining ½ teaspoon salt, adjust the seasoning, and transfer the hummus to a serving bowl. Drizzle with the olive oil, sprinkle with the chopped cilantro and lemon zest, and serve.

You can make the hummus up to 3 days ahead; cover and refrigerate.