Of course I’m tempted to do a ham steak with pineapple, and I wouldn’t begin to stop you, but I really think parsley is the key here. When I’ve got time, I am happy to stand at the stove whisking up a roux, and stirring, stirring, stirring to usher forth the perfect velvety parsley sauce, but a quick flick of parsley in a pan works in a more sprightly way.

I’m all for peas as an accompaniment, and always have a stash of frozen ones at the ready. Nevertheless, it’s hard for me to forswear a can of luridly green marrowfat peas here. Yes, they are processed and I’d prefer not to read the ingredients list on the back of the can, but I can’t help loving them. A can or jar of those small, gray-green French peas would be an excellent substitute for those lacking my low tastes. Or cook and drain some frozen peas, blending them with a little Parmesan, pepper, and mascarpone.