I love grilled or fried halloumi, that squeaky, salty, polystyrene-textured sheep’s-milk cheese. Not a very seductive way of describing it maybe, but that, indeed, is what it’s like. You should have no difficulty finding it in cheese shops, Turkish or Greek markets or specialty shops. This is easy to make. You don’t need to do it at the very last minute, but don’t fry the halloumi so far in advance that it’s totally cooled by the time it comes to the table. And if you prefer, by all means broil it. And again, this is the sort of food that you can sit on the table for people idly to eat as they stand around, drink in hand. It looks beautiful, too, which is always an aid to proceedings. If you must, use another cheese such as Munster, Fontina, Gruyere or raclette.