1. To make the pastry, sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Stir in the oats. Add the butter and rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture looks like coarse bread crumbs. Stir in enough of the water for the dough to hold together. Gather into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

2. Have ready four 4in (10cm) tart pans with removable bottoms. Divide the dough into 6 portions, and roll out each on a lightly floured work surface into a 1/8 in (3mm) thick round. Line each pan with a round, trimming the excess dough. Prick the dough with a fork. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

3. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line each tart pan with parchment paper and fill with baking beans. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove the paper and beans and bake until the crusts are lightly browned, about 5 minutes more. Remove the pans from the oven. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C).

4. Whisk the milk, yogurt, eggs, and chives in a large glass measuring cup, and season with salt and pepper. Divide the cheese evenly among the pastry shells, and carefully pour in the milk mixture. Bake for 20–25 minutes, until the filling is lightly set and beginning to brown.

Variation:

Sun-dried Tomato and Goat Cheese Tartlets: Add some chopped sun-dried tomatoes to the pastry shells with the goat cheese. Or spread each pastry shell with 1 tbsp store-bought tomato chutney before adding the cheese.