Cultivated in western Tuscany, in the area known as the Garfagnana, and in the Abruzzo to the east, farro is an early variety of wheat. The grain is semipearled, which means that some of the outer coating still remains after a few abrasions. Lighter in mouth-feel than wheat berries, farro has a taste and texture that resembles barley more than wheat. The kernels from the Garfagnana cook a bit more quickly than those from the Abruzzo because they are more pearled, so that less of the outer hull remains. Although many farro recipes tell you to soak the grain, I find this unnecessary. The pearled farro from the Garfagnana cooks in about 20 minutes. The sturdier, browner farro from the Abruzzo takes about 30 minutes and may be soaked for 30 minutes if you want it to cook a bit more quickly.

Cooked farro reheats like a dream in a little broth or water and holds well in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. I must confess that I am addicted to it and could eat it every day for a week. I usually make enough farro for a few days as it keeps well. The following recipe for basic farro will yield enough for two meals. For an easy second meal, add the kernels from an ear of corn, a little broth, a pat of butter, and salt and pepper. Like risotto, farro can be enhanced with leftover cooked chicken and sautéed mushrooms, or sautéed mushrooms and toasted hazelnuts.