To dry-age the roast: Place a refrigerator thermometer at the back of the bottom shelf of your refrigerator. Reduce the temperature to just below 38 F. Cover the bottom of a roasting pan with several layers of paper towels. Place the roast, bone side down, on the towels, and store-uncovered-at the back of the bottom shelf of your refrigerator. Allow the meat to age for 3 to 5 days, checking the refrigerator temperature often.

When you’re ready to roast, let the meat sit out of the refrigerator for 1 hour until it reaches room temperature. Preheat the oven to 250°F for ½ hour. If you’re planing to roast in an unglazed terra-cotta vessel, place it in the oven while it’s still cold and heat at 250°F for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Rub the roast with just enough canola oil to make it shine, then rub with the salt and pepper. Place the meat in a shallow roasting pan, bone side down (to prevent the meat from sitting in liquid). Insert the probe of your thermometer into the center of the roast and set for 118 F. Place the roast in the oven and reduce the temperature to 200°F.

When the meat has reached 118°F (about 4 hours), remove the roast and cover lightly with foil. Raise the oven temperature to 500°F. When the oven reaches 500°F, let it heat for another 15 minutes, then return the roast to the oven until the desired degree of crust is achieved, about 10 to 15 minutes. Transfer the roast to a cutting board and cover with foil until ready to serve.

Place the roasting pan with its accumulated juices on the cook-top over medium heat and deglaze the pan with 1 cup of water. Allow the liquid to come to a boil, scraping occasionally until any bits stuck to the pan are freed. Add the wine and then transfer the liquid to a gravy separator. Allow five minutes for separation of fat from juice and then pour the liquid (but not the fat) back into the pan. Add the leek and return to a simmer. Stir in the garlic butter and serve over lovely, red slabs of goodness.