1. In a saucepan, heat 1 tbsp (15 ml) of the oil over medium-high heat; cook shallots until golden. Stir in garlic; cook until golden. Stir in chilies and ginger; cook until softened. Stir in anchovies (if using), bay leaves, lemon grass (if using), celery, parsley and pepper; cook, stirring, until fragrant. Stir in coconut milk, salt and fish sauce (if using); bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and cook 2 minutes. Set aside.

2. Divide rice vermicelli into 4 equal portions. In a deep saucepan or wok, heat remaining oil to 350° F (180° C); cook 1 portion of noodles until they swell and turn crispy, turning once. With a strainer, remove noodles from wok; drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining noodles. Remove all but 2 tbsp (25 ml) of the oil from the wok; cook garlic until golden and crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon; drain on paper towel.

3. Bring coconut sauce to a simmer over medium heat. Stir in green onion, chilies, mussels, shrimp and fish; cover and cook until shellfish opens and fish is cooked through. Put one portion of noodles on each of 4 plates; spoon seafood coconut sauce over top. Serve garnished with fried garlic.