The sweetest and tenderest lobsters are under 1½ pounds, and the easiest way to cook live lobster is by boiling or steaming them.

To boil lobsters, fill a lobster kettle with water to cover the lobsters and add 1 teaspoon of salt for every quart of water if you are not using sea water. Cover the kettle and bring to a rolling boil.

Plunge the lobsters head first into the pot and cover. When the water begins to boil, cook the 1- pound lobster for 10 minutes, and 1½ pound lobsters for 14 minutes. Cold live lobster will cool down the water and it will take from 3 to 5 minutes for the water to return to a boil.

When steaming lobsters, if possible, layer the bottom of the kettle with about ½ pound of seaweed. Add several quarts of water, and bring to a boil, covered. Add the lobsters, cover, and cook according to the individual size. Most lobster kettles will hold 4 to 5 lobsters at a time, but it is best to cook them a few at a time rather than overcrowding the pot. If steaming, the lobsters on the bottom will cook fastest. Lobsters should cool slightly before handling.

For easy serving, use a sharp sturdy knife to cut the lobster from the point where the tail and body meet down to the tail. Turn the lobster around and cut through the head. Remove and discard the sand sac from the head of the halved lobster. Crack each claw at its widest point and serve with lobster crackers.

Boiled or steamed lobster may be served plain or with warm drawn butter.