In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, mix together the rice, 4 cups stock, and the ginger and bring up to a simmer. Cover and cook very gently indeed (a heat diffuser mat is helpful), for at least 1 hour or maybe longer, stirring from time to time; the desired consistency should be that of porridge, and with the rice and stock harmoniously married; you may need more stock to get it just right. As ever, practice makes perfect. (You may also prefer to cook it in a very low oven, covered, but it must be finished on the cooktop.)

Naturally, the rice will be overcooked almost to the point of submission. Once you are happy with its consistency, fish out the ginger and discard, then add the rice wine and stir in.

To finish the congee, ladle it into bowls, distribute the garnishes as you see fit, then trickle on a little of the soy and oils.