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Chinese, Sichuan
Cold Noodles with Sesame Sauce

Photo by: Joseph De Leo
Comments: 3
 

Recipe

Cold noodles with sesame sauce was cutting-edge Chinese in 1969, and New York City’s food adventurers were going to Chinatown to eat them at Hwa Yuan Szechuan Inn at 40 East Broadway, one of Chinatown’s first Szechuan restaurants. It was opened by Chef “Shorty” Tang, who became famous for the dish. Tragically, Shorty died in 1971. His family carried on for nearly a decade without him, but to their credit, the food remained as good as it was when Shorty was alive, and Shorty’s reputation continued to grow. In 1977, Milton Glaser and Jerome Snyder, in their Underground Gourmet guide to New York City, note that Shorty “is reputed to be the culinary teacher of almost every Szechuan chef in town.” They seemed not to know that he had been dead for six years.

The noodles were, in fact, just one among many other more ambitious and totally exotic Szechuan delights that Shorty would no doubt have preferred to be remembered by. I was a poor newlywed at the time he opened and remember frequenting the restaurant for a few other things—somehow braised duck sticks in my memory. Besides serving food that was breathtakingly spicy, the complete opposite of the subtle, if not downright bland, Cantonese-style cooking that ruled the day, Hwa Yuan was affordable.

Cold noodles with sesame sauce is very much part of New York City today. Every so-called salad bar has them. Every Chinese take-out menu lists them. Hardly anyone still associates it with the rage for hot and spicy Hunan-Szechuan cooking that was so popular in the 1970s. Indeed, it doesn’t even have the pepper bite that it had when it was introduced back then. The following recipe suggests a range of pepper to suit your taste.

Yield: Serves 6

Ingredients

  • 1¼ pounds fresh Chinese egg noodles, or 1 pound linguine or spaghetti
  • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  • 7 tablespoons Chinese sesame paste or 100% natural peanut butter
  • 2/3 cup warm water
  • 6 tablespoons soy sauce
  • 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons sesame oil
  • ½ to 1 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper, or more to taste
  • 1 tablespoon sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic
  • 3 to 4 whole scallions, finely chopped
  • 1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, and julienned
  • Fresh coriander leaves (optional)

Directions

In about 5 quarts of boiling water salted with 1 rounded tablespoon salt, cook the noodles until done to taste. Drain immediately and rinse under cold running water until cooled. Place in a large bowl, drizzle with the vegetable oil, and toss well. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

If the sesame paste or peanut butter has separated, drive a chopstick repeatedly into it so you can mix the oil in sufficiently to stir, although it needn’t be perfectly smooth at this point.

In a small mixing bowl, with a fork or small whisk, beat the sesame paste or peanut butter together with the water until fairly smooth. Add the soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, cayenne pepper, sugar, and salt. Beat again until smooth.

Add the garlic and scallions, stir well, and let stand for at least 30 minutes, or until ready to serve.

(The sauce may be made several days ahead. Allow to return to room temperature before tossing it with the noodles.)

Toss the noodles with about 1½ cups of the sauce.

Serve topped with the remaining sauce, the cucumber, and coriander, if using.

Notes

I have served this as a sort of salad base to receive additions of, say, strips of roasted chicken, pork, or shrimp, or steamed vegetables such as broccoli, string beans, carrots, fennel (could be raw)—you name it. The sauce, apart from the pasta, is also good as a salad or vegetable dressing.


© 2004 Arthur Schwartz
 

Nutritional Information

Nutrients per serving (% daily value)

495kcal (25%)
55mg (6%)
3mg (6%)
22mcg RAE (1%)
466mg
90mg
18g
6g
5g
64g
64mg (21%)
1502mg (63%)
3g (16%)
20g (30%)
4mg (23%)
 

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  • kararota

    08.27.13 Flag comment

    @Dave941 - I live on the Upper West Side and love hearing your memories! Let me know how the recipe turns out for you.

    All best,
    Kara Rota
    Cookstr
    Director, Editorial & Partnerships

  • dave941

    08.24.13 Flag comment

    I used to go to Empire Szechuan to get this when I was just a kid, 3 or 4 years old. It was on the corner of 97th & Broadway. My parents knew the owners & they invited our entire family to come on their opening night. Forward to the present day & Empire Szechuan is all over New York City. That six or seven seat restaurant now runs the entire block. They, no doubt, had the best Chinese food in Manhattan.
    Thanks for posting this recipe. I always loved that spicy 'kick' that this dish delivered. Can't find it like that in too many places anymore, especially here in Florida. I'll try it out & let you know what I think.

  • Mrazygous

    12.01.09 Flag comment

    How cool to find this 43 years after first having Shorty make it for us. We moved back East from L.A. Woodstock weekend. My Father, the Original Foodie (srry Arthur-He was a fanatical Fan of your Radio pgm in his latter years) somehow found David K's first place on W. B'way around 96th. This was the first Szechuan Restaurant in NYC and Shorty was in the kitchen, turning this and other amazingly, delightfully hot stuff out. I remember it being made with Chilipaste w/garlic (Lan Chi=real deal) for heat. Don't recall coriander or cuc's but maybe they came with his own place you mention. Shorty's Ants Climbing a Tree were also off the scale. Thanks for this: it's so a part of family past I can now resurrect

 

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