Hardly a dish exists on the honor roll of Greek cuisine with more names than shrimp baked with tomatoes and feta. You hear the dish called garides yiouvetsi and also yiouvetsaki. Sometimes it’s dubbed garides me feta and sometimes garides kokkiyia me feta. Here and there it shows up on menus as garides me saltsa, but equally often as garides me feta saltsa. The proliferation of names gives testimony to one thing: a dish so popular, widespread, and classic certainly must sing with flavor, and it does.

Few cheeses go with shellfish, but sheep’s-milk feta blankets the tender shrimp with a sharp tang the way a wash of lemon juice cannot. The cheese also echoes the sea’s lightly salty bath. The tomatoes create a sauce with zest and body, with carmine hue and vegetable warmth, and a touch of brandy offers a hint of a blazing fire. Serve plenty of crusty bread to sop up the sauce.