Rice is one of the most highly prized grains in Middle Eastern cuisine. In late medieval times, it was relatively costly and used sparingly by families of modest means. Instead, most cooks used bulgur to add heft to ground beef and to accompany vegetable dishes.

To enhance the flavor of rice, most Arab recipes call for butter. Because Jewish law prohibits mixing dairy and meat ingredients, Aleppian Jews use vegetable oil instead, lightly sautéing the rice before adding the water. In addition to enriching the flavor of the rice, the oil produces a’hata, the crispy golden rice crust that sticks to the bottom of the pot, which is much fought over when it reaches the table. A’hata can be enjoyed alone or eaten mixed with the fluffy rice, adding a terrific textural contrast.