When the avocado moved north to california and Florida gardens as a lush shade tree, only natives of Mexico and connoisseurs of Mexican botanical treats knew how marvelous the fruit was. For a long while, others ignored the knobby pears, with their buttery, nutty flesh. Now it seems we can hardly get along without avocados. So smooth, they are the perfect companion to spicy Southwest fare, and a natural taco topping. Skinned and chopped, they are sublime, but we like them perked up just a bit with a dash of lime juice and salt.

Black ones, speckled ones, some so thin-skinned you can chop them peel and all, avocados come in many varieties. The two most commonly available are nubbly, charcoal green Haas and the smooth skinned, bright green Fuerte. Of these, Haas is by far the choice. They are denser and more deeply flavored.