I don’t suppose this is ever going to win plaudits from the World Health Organization, but a cheese fondue is surely the stuff of dreams. On the plus side, healthwise, I love it best with radishes, endive, spears of radicchio and carrots dipped in, but I don’t know why I am trying to engage with that particular argument. The point is, it makes a fabulous supper: filling, gorgeous to eat, and conducive to good atmosphere and even better spirits.

Make a vat of this, and supply nothing other than fruit afterward or, at most, a little palate-tickling sorbet.