Ceviches, the wonderful lime-marinated seafood cocktails of Latin American, are experiencing an evolution. In Mexico, for centuries ceviche has meant ultrafresh fish or shellfish that’s preserved/marinated/”acid-cooked” in lime juice. But many modern chefs have broadened the concept to include practically any bold-flavored combination of seafood, vegetables, chiles, herbs, even fruit, that can be served as a cool appetizer or snack, usually with a bracing bolt of lime. My version here is pretty traditionally Mexican except that the fish in Mexico would likely be mackerel or kingfish, it would typically be marinated long enough to “cook” through and it would be served in a glass bowl or in a tostada, rather than nestled into greens. I’ve recently become enchanted with the Peruvian take on ceviche (the fish is marinated only moments before serving), especially since sashimi-grade fish (the top, okay-to-eat raw grade) is become more common in our fish markets. Whatever your marinated preference, this salad is just the ticket on a warm summer night, served with crusty bread or crackers.