I attribute this crispy, rich pasta preparation to George Germon from Al Forno in Providence. Rhode Island, who, along with his wonderful wife and partner, Johanne Killeen, so impressed us during the few days they spent in our kitchen years ago. This simple dish is true to their pure, uncomplicated cooking style.

We bake this gratin in a shallow half sheet pan, approximately 12 by 17 inches and 1 inch deep. You could use a smaller, deeper pan, but I like this when it’s thin and crisp; otherwise, it becomes a bit too dense and rich. Sheet pans, both full size and half size—which are about the size of a jelly-roll pan—are the workhorses of a professional kitchen, and half sheet pans are a great item to have at home (full sheet pans are too large for most home ovens). Find them at your local kitchenware or restaurant supply store.

Those less concerned with their waistlines may choose to up the richness ante by adding another quarter cup of heavy cream. Serve the gratin with roasted or grilled meats or by itself.