Pork loin cuts, center to end, are priced as though they were the preferred choice for tasty pork meat. The shoulder (or butt) of pork is considered a second, albeit less expensive, selection. For pressure cooking, though, there’s no doubt the shoulder is what works best. Taking the time to let the shoulder soak in an aromatic brine for one or two days settles any controversy with the first bite. Fennel and figs complement the pork beautifully, but there’s plenty of room to reinterpret the recipe with alternatives of your choice, such as dried apricots, celery, and so on.

Pickling brine used to be called corning brine when it was used in butcher shops to cure fresh ham in a barrel. The butcher’s barrel brine also contained some saltpeter, a preservative, required by the USFDA, that is the best preventive of bacterial growth. It is also the agent that turns the ham, tongue, or corned beef a rosy pink; without it, the meat will be more of a foggy gray color. If you care to, you can simulate the coloring property of saltpeter by adding a chunk of cured ham to the brine. Powdered saltpeter is available in pharmacies.

The amount of brine in the following recipe is sufficient for 1 chicken or 2 or 3 trout (let soak for 24 hours) or 1 pork roast (let cure for 24 to 48 hours). For a beef brisket or tongue, make a double batch and let cure for 1 week. For a turkey, make a triple batch and let cure for 72 hours.