If you haven’t tried braised cabbage in a while, it’s well worth another look. The cabbage cooks only for about 25 minutes, just until tender and wilted. It is a simple and delicious dish that belies the old tales about the sulphorous odor of cabbage cooked for hours. Not this! It smells warm and earthy.

In the summer, the leaves on cabbage heads are more open, while the cabbage heads you buy in the winter are more tightly wrapped. When you prepare it, pull off the outer leaves only if they look wilted or browned; otherwise, just start slicing. I like the color of red cabbage but you could use green cabbage here, or try savoy, napa, or bok choy. All are good, mild, and sweet and should never be overcooked. I pep the cabbage up with a little red wine vinegar here and also mix it with bacon, an appealing combination of flavors and textures.