Say the word sweet potato and most Americans think of a sweet, bright orange-fleshed root vegetable. In Hispanic and West Indian communities in Florida, not to mention throughout the Caribbean, sweet potato means a turnip-shaped tuber with patchy purplish skin and cream-colored flesh: the boniato.

A beauty it’s not, which may explain the boniato’s slow acceptance in North America. This is a shame, for the tuber has a far more interesting flavor and texture than our sweet potato. It’s less sweet than the latter, tasting like freshly roasted chestnuts. It’s also harder and drier than an American sweet potato, with a starchy consistency similar to that of a baked potato.

When buying boniatos, look for hard, firm tubers free of mold, tiny worm holes, or soft spots. It’s normal for the skin to look patchy, but it shouldn’t be shriveled or wet. Boniatos range from the size of a lemon to that of a coconut, but the size doesn’t alter the flavor. Store them in a loosely sealed paper bag at room temperature and try to use within 2 or 3 days of purchase.

Boniatos can be cooked any way you would a potato or sweet potato, including baking, boiling, steaming, frying, sautéing, or puréeing. I find that a paring knife works better than a vegetable peeler for peeling them. Keep the peeled boniato in water to cover until cooking time: the pale flesh discolors when exposed to air. Baked or boiled boniato should be served immediately, as it becomes a little starchy if it sits for too long.