1. Place the beans and ham hock in a medium saucepan and pour in enough water to cover them by 2 inches. Toss in the bay leaves and bring the water to a boil, then adjust the heat so the water is boiling gently. Cook the beans, skimming off any foam that rises to the top, until tender, about 2 hours. Keep an eye on the beans; they should always be covered by liquid. When the liquid meets the level of the beans, add ½ inch or so of cold water.

2. Toward the end of cooking, ease up on the liquid you add. The goal is to have the beans barely covered with liquid by the time they are tender.