1. In a bowl, marinate the beef in the wine and bay leaves for 8 to 10 hours in the refrigerator.

2. In a skillet, cook the bacon over medium heat, being careful not to overcook it—it should not be crispy. Remove the bacon, leaving the fat in the skillet.

3. Remove the brisket from the wine, saving the marinade. Using the same skillet, turn the heat up to high, and when hot, sear the beef for 1½ to 2 minutes on each side, holding the brisket with tongs or a fork to sear all sides.

4. Place the seared beef in a Dutch oven and let it cool for a couple of minutes. Sprinkle the thyme on both sides of the brisket. Wrap the bacon strips around the brisket, securing them with kitchen string.

5. Preheat the oven to 300°F.

6. In the same skillet, melt the butter into the remaining bacon fat, and sauté the onions, carrots, fennel bulbs, celery stalks, and garlic for 4 to 5 minutes to awaken the flavors. Pour the vegetables, the fat in which they’re cooked, and the remaining wine marinade over and around the brisket. Cover the Dutch oven and begin the slow cooking process.

7. Bake the brisket for 3½ to 4 hours. Every 30 minutes, remove the brisket and turn it, stirring the vegetables. When done, the brisket should be so tender that you can cut through it with a spoon. Remove the butcher string and bay leaves, spoon the vegetables over the eat and serve.