Lightly salt the shrimp and red snapper and arrange on a platter at the table with the mussels and lemon wedges. In a fondue pot, bring the water, wine, and cilantro to a boil, then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Season with salt to taste. Provide each diner with a soup bowl.

Add the mussels, a few pieces at a time. Cook about 4 minutes. Add the shrimp and red snapper, a few pieces at a time, without crowding the broth, and cook until just opaque and the mussels open, about 2 minutes. Discard any mussels that don’t open.

Diners transfer portions to their individual bowls and add a spoonful of one of the sauces and a squeeze of lemon.

Variation:

Omit shellfish and substitute fishballs or shrimp balls.