To prepare any chicken, bring water (other than the 3½ quarts) to a boil in a 7-quart straight-sided stainless-steel soup pot and blanch whole chicken by boiling for 10 minutes. Lift chicken out and rinse in cold water. Discard water and rinse pot.

Return chicken to pot with feet, if any, and about 14 cups of water as needed to cover chicken, plus ginger, scallions, and wine if you are using them and half of the salt. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, and simmer very slowly, partly covered, for 3 hours. Turn chicken once in a while, but do not replenish water unless chicken is more than half uncovered.

Chicken meat will have no flavor and should be discarded. Reduce soup by about one-quarter, then strain and skim off as much fat as possible. Cool, uncovered, at room temperature, then cover in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Variation (Yield: About 2½ quarts)

Simmer 10 cups canned, thoroughly degreased chicken broth (preferably low-sodium) and 5 cups of water with the ginger, scallions, and wine as in master recipe. Add chicken trimmings if you have any. Simmer, partly covered, for 30 minutes. Strain, skim, and use as called for. Do not add salt until serving.